Essence vs toner vs softener

The three names, sorted

Toner. In Western routines, a toner was traditionally a liquid swept on with a cotton pad after cleansing to remove what the cleanser left behind. Many modern toners are gentler and hydrating. In Japanese routines, the same step is often called a lotion, which confuses US shoppers because lotion usually means a moisturizer in the US.

Softener. A softener is a hydrating toner, usually a little thicker than water. Shiseido uses the name in Future Solution LX and other lines. Our page on what the Shiseido softener is covers it in detail.

Essence. An essence is a thin liquid that usually carries the brand's key ingredient in a more concentrated form than a toner. SK-II Facial Treatment Essence, with over 90% PITERA per its listing, is the best-known example. See what is a skincare essence.

Luxury examples with listing facts

La Prairie uses the hybrid term essence-in-lotion, which tells you the product fills both slots. Prices are listing prices at the time of writing. La Prairie titles on Amazon do not state the size, so check the listing details before working out price per ml with our price per ml calculator.

What order do they go in?

The general rule is thinnest to thickest. Toner, lotion or softener goes first after cleansing. Essence goes next. Then serum, eye cream, moisturizer, oil, and sunscreen last in the morning. If you use an essence-in-lotion, it replaces both and goes straight after cleansing. When a brand gives a specific order for its own line, follow the brand. Our routine order builder sets it out for you, and skincare routine order explains the logic.

How to apply each one

Toners and softeners can go on with a cotton pad or with the hands. A pad gives a light swipe and uses more product; hands waste less. Essences are usually poured into the palm and pressed in, which is how the SK-II listing describes it: shake a small amount into the palms and press over the face and neck. See how to use a skincare essence.

1. 1

   Cleanse and pat dry.

2. 2

   Toner or softener: a few drops in the palm or on a cotton pad, pressed or swept over the face.

3. 3

   Essence: coin-size amount in the palm, pressed in.

4. 4

   Wait a moment for each layer to absorb.

5. 5

   Continue with serum and moisturizer.

Do you need toner, softener and essence?

No. All three are optional. A routine of cleanser, serum, moisturizer and sunscreen covers the basics. If you like a watery step, one is usually enough: a softener if you want a simple hydrating layer, or an essence if you want a brand's key ingredient in a light form. Using both is a matter of preference, not a rule.

If you are on a budget, spend on the step you use most carefully, usually serum or moisturizer, and keep the watery step simple. Our serum vs essence page explains the next step up, and our luxury essence guide lists full-size options.

Note.Some Western toners contain alcohol or exfoliating acids. If a toner stings, stop using it and check the ingredient list.

Matching a watery step to a line

Most luxury lines sell their own first step. Shiseido Future Solution LX starts with a softener, Lancôme Absolue with the Rose 80 toning lotion, La Prairie Skin Caviar with the Essence-in-Lotion, and SK-II with Facial Treatment Essence. Using the matching step is not required, but it keeps scent and texture consistent. For brand-level comparisons, see SK-II vs Lancôme Absolue Rose 80 and our La Prairie skincare guide.

Frequently asked questions

Is a softener the same as a toner? A softener is a type of toner, usually hydrating and a little thicker. The name is common in Japanese and Korean lines.

Does toner go before essence? Yes. Toner or softener first, then essence, then serum.

Why is a Japanese lotion not a moisturizer? In Japanese skincare, lotion means a watery toner-like step. A US body or face lotion is a moisturizer, which is a different thing.

What is an essence-in-lotion? A hybrid term La Prairie uses for a watery first step that covers both toner and essence. Use it right after cleansing.