What is a skincare essence

Essence in one line: a watery step before serum

In most routines an essence is the first leave-on step after cleansing and toning. The texture is close to water, sometimes slightly slippery, and it is applied in a larger amount than a serum, often a coin-size pour into the palm. It is followed by serum, eye cream and moisturizer.

The idea is preparation and layering. Brands describe their essences as the step that readies the skin for what comes next. La Prairie, for example, calls its Skin Caviar Essence-in-Lotion a pre-serum treatment in the product title. How each essence is formulated, and what it is meant to do, is up to each brand, so read the box.

Where the essence step came from

Watery lotions applied after cleansing have long been part of Japanese skincare routines, where the word lotion often means a thin liquid rather than a body cream. The best-known luxury example is the SK-II Facial Treatment Essence from SK-II, a brand from Japan. Its listing describes a lightweight, water-like texture made with over 90% PITERA, which SK-II describes as its fermentation-derived ingredient. See what is Pitera for how SK-II explains it.

Korean routines later made the essence step widely known in the US as well. Today many Western luxury houses sell a version of the same step, often under a different name.

Essence, lotion, softener, toner: the naming problem

The same kind of watery product can carry several names. Here is how the common terms are usually used. When in doubt, look at where the brand says to apply it in the routine, not just the name.

Note.Some products called essence, such as dropper bottles labeled serum essence, behave like serums. Follow the order the brand gives.

What an essence feels like

Most classic essences feel like water with a little slip. They sink in within a minute when pressed in and leave the skin feeling damp rather than coated. Essence-in-lotion products can feel a touch more cushioned. Thicker serum essences, often in dropper bottles, sit between a watery essence and a gel serum.

A few examples from listings: the SK-II Facial Treatment Essence is described as water-like. The Estee Lauder Re-Nutriv Ultimate Lift Emulsion is described as a silky, lightweight milky lotion, which is thicker than a classic essence. The SK-II SKINPOWER Essence comes with an auto-dropper and its listing places it after cleansing, toning and treating, before moisturizer, so it works more like a serum step. Our serum vs essence and essence vs toner pages go further into the differences.

How to use an essence

The SK-II listing gives a specific method: shake 2 to 3 times into the palms and press over face and neck for about a minute, twice daily. Other brands differ. For a full walkthrough, see how to use a skincare essence.

1. 1

   Cleanse and pat the face mostly dry.

2. 2

   Apply toner or softener first if you use one.

3. 3

   Pour a small amount of essence into the palm, or onto a cotton pad if the brand suggests one.

4. 4

   Press it over the face and neck with both palms, or sweep the pad outward.

5. 5

   Let it settle for a moment, then apply serum, eye cream and moisturizer.

Luxury essences and their sizes

Essences are usually sold in larger bottles than serums because more is used per application. That changes the price per ml math. The SK-II Facial Treatment Essence 7.7 oz bottle is listed at 228 ml, a size you can compare with the price per ml calculator. Some La Prairie listings, such as the Skin Caviar Essence-in-Lotion and the Platinum Rare Cellular Life-Lotion, do not state the size, so check the box before comparing value.

Our best luxury skincare essence guide compares the essences we cover by stated size, texture and listed ingredients, and the SK-II products guide covers that brand's full lineup.

Compare luxury essences by size and texture →

Do you need an essence

An essence is optional. A routine of cleanser, serum, moisturizer and morning sunscreen is complete without one. People add an essence because they like the layering ritual, the feel of a watery first step, or because a brand they use builds its line around one, as SK-II and La Prairie do. If you are buying into a single-brand routine, the brand's order is the one to follow; see the skincare routine order page for the general version.

Frequently asked questions

Is an essence the same as a toner? Not usually. Toner typically comes right after cleansing; essence comes after toner and before serum. Some brands blur the line, so check where the box places it.

Is an essence the same as a serum? Usually no. A classic essence is thinner and used in a larger amount. Some products called serum essence act like serums.

Do I use an essence morning and night? Many brands say twice daily. Check the box for your product.

Can I use an essence with a cotton pad? Some brands suggest a pad, some say hands only. Either way, a pad uses more product, so expect the bottle to run down faster.