Why skincare pills and how to stop it

What pilling is

Pilling is product, not skin. Many creams and serums contain ingredients that form a thin film on the skin, such as silicones, polymers and thickeners. When there is more product than the skin surface can hold, or when the film is disturbed while still wet, it can roll into small balls. They wipe off easily and look like the product, not like skin flakes.

If what you see is your own skin flaking, peeling, stinging or red, stop using the new product and talk to a dermatologist. That is not pilling.

Pilling often shows up after a routine change: a new serum, a new sunscreen, a bigger scoop from a fresh jar or a rushed morning. Thinking back to what changed is usually the quickest way to find the cause. It can also depend on the weather, since products dry down more slowly in humid air and faster in dry, heated rooms, which changes how long you need to wait between layers.

Common causes

Step-by-step fix

1. 1

   Start with a clean face, patted dry.

2. 2

   Apply each step in thin-to-thick order: watery steps, serum, eye cream, cream, oil, then sunscreen in the morning.

3. 3

   Use a measured amount: about a pea of cream and 2 to 3 drops or 1 pump of serum.

4. 4

   Press or smooth lightly rather than rubbing in circles.

5. 5

   Wait about 30 seconds to a minute between layers, until the skin no longer feels wet.

6. 6

   If a layer still pills, wipe the pills away gently and skip the next step that day.

7. 7

   Next time, change one thing only, so you can see what helped.

Check your routine order →

Finding the product combination that pills

When pilling happens only with a certain pair of products, test them. On one day, apply only the serum and wait. On another, apply only the cream. Then try both, with a full minute in between. If each is fine alone but they pill together, the pairing is the issue, not either product. Try putting the thinner one first, using less of each, or using one in the morning and the other at night.

Brand lines are designed to layer with each other, so pairing products from the same line, in the order the brand gives, is one option. Shiseido gives an order for Future Solution LX, and Lancome describes Absolue The Soft Cream as turning into a thin, serum-like lotion as you apply it. See how to use Shiseido Future Solution LX and Absolue Soft Cream vs Rich Cream.

Texture choices that may help

Lighter creams leave a thinner film and can be easier to layer under sunscreen and makeup. Augustinus Bader describes The Light Cream as lightweight and velvety, and Dr. Barbara Sturm describes Face Cream Light as non-greasy. Our lightweight luxury moisturizer guide lists more, and cream textures explained describes the range. If a cream feels heavy rather than pilling, see cream feels greasy.

Amounts matter as much as texture. Our pages on how much face cream to use and how much serum to use give common amounts, and using less also makes a jar last longer.

When to get help

Pilling is a cosmetic nuisance and is fixed by changing amounts, wait times or pairings. If you see redness, itching, burning, swelling or skin peeling, stop using the new product. Patch test new products before adding them to a routine, as described in our patch test guide, and see a dermatologist for any skin condition or reaction.

Frequently asked questions

Does pilling mean a product is fake or bad? No. Pilling is common with genuine products and usually comes down to amount, wait time or layering.

Why does my sunscreen pill over moisturizer? Often the moisturizer has not settled or there is too much of it. Use less cream and wait before sunscreen.

Do silicones cause pilling? Silicones and other film-forming ingredients can pill when layered thickly or rubbed while wet. They do not always pill.

Should I use a different order? Thin to thick is the usual fix. See skincare routine order and serum before or after moisturizer.