How to patch test a new skincare product

What a patch test is, and what it is not

A patch test at home means using a small amount of a product on a small area of skin for a few days before using it more widely. The idea is to notice any discomfort on a small spot rather than across the whole face. It is a common precaution that many brands mention on their packaging.

It is not a diagnosis and it is not the same as patch testing done by a doctor. A product that feels fine on a small area for a few days can still bother the skin later or in a different area. If you have known skin conditions or allergies, or a reaction concerns you, speak to a doctor or pharmacist. Always follow any patch test instructions printed on the product.

Note.This page describes a common home habit only. It is not medical advice. If you are worried about a reaction, contact a doctor or pharmacist.

Where to apply the product

Choose a small area that is easy to watch and not usually covered by other products.

• Inner forearm or inside of the elbow: easy to see and away from other skincare.
• Behind the ear: a common spot for face products, close to facial skin.
• Along the jawline or side of the neck: closer to how the product will be used on the face.
• A small spot on the side of the face: some people move here after a few days on the arm or behind the ear.

The common method, step by step

1. 1

   Read the box first. Follow any directions the brand gives for testing or use.

2. 2

   Clean and dry the area.

3. 3

   Apply a small amount, about the size of a pea or less, in a patch roughly the size of a coin.

4. 4

   Use it as you would on the face: leave-on products stay on, rinse-off products are rinsed after the usual time.

5. 5

   Repeat once or twice a day, matching how often you plan to use it.

6. 6

   Continue for several days. Many people test for about a week, and longer for products with exfoliating acids or retinoids.

7. 7

   If nothing bothers you, start using the product on the face, at first on its own rather than alongside several other new products.

What to watch for, and when to stop

Stop using the product and wash the area with water if you notice redness, itching, stinging, burning, swelling, bumps or any discomfort. Do not keep testing to see if it settles down. If the reaction is strong, spreads or does not settle, contact a doctor or pharmacist.

Some products are described by the brand as having a tingle or warming feel, for example some exfoliating formulas. Even then, if it feels uncomfortable to you, stop. Comfort is the guide, not the label.

• Stop: redness, itching, stinging, burning, swelling or bumps.
• Stop: any discomfort that makes you want to wash it off.
• Seek advice: a reaction that is strong, spreads or does not settle.

Testing several new products

Test one new product at a time. If you start a new serum, cream and essence on the same day and something bothers your skin, you will not know which one it was. Space new products a week or so apart. This is especially useful with a full new routine from one brand, such as a gift set.

Pay extra attention to products that list exfoliating acids. For example, the Lancome Absolue The Serum listing names an exfoliating acid complex, and the Lancome Absolue Longevity MD Intercept listing names LHA. Vitamin C serums, such as Dr. Barbara Sturm The Good C, are another type many people test first. These are listing facts, not warnings about the products; they are simply common categories people choose to introduce slowly.

Why patch testing matters with luxury jars

Luxury creams are often not returnable once opened, and a 50 ml jar can cost several hundred dollars. Testing first is one way to avoid opening a full jar of something you cannot use. Smaller sizes and sets are useful here: a travel-size set, such as the La Prairie Skin Caviar Lifting Discovery Set or the Dr. Barbara Sturm Discovery Kit, lets you test before buying full sizes. Our mini vs full size skincare page covers when minis make sense, and the luxury gift sets guide lists sets with sizes.

When testing a jar, use a clean spatula to take product out so the rest of the jar stays clean in case you keep it. See how to use a cream jar spatula.

See luxury sets that work as trial sizes →

Frequently asked questions

How long should I patch test skincare? Many people test for several days to about a week, using the product as often as they plan to use it on the face. Follow any directions on the box.

Where is the best place to patch test a face cream? Common spots are behind the ear, along the jawline or on the inner forearm. Spots near the face are closer to real use.

Does a patch test guarantee a product is safe for me? No. It only shows how a small area responded over a few days. Stop if anything bothers you later.

What should I do if my skin reacts during a patch test? Wash the area with water and stop using the product. If the reaction is strong or does not settle, contact a doctor or pharmacist.